12 Excellent Reference Books for Collecting Vintage Costume Jewellery in the UK

You have a thirst for knowledge and want to know more about the vintage costume jewellery in your collection. But which book to buy if you are living in the UK?

There are hundreds of reference books to choose from and most have been written in the US by authors who have a collection based in the US. How specific is that to us in the UK?

So here's a brief guide of 12 books to give a good over view of knowledge from Victorian through to the eighties and beyond. Actually there are more than 12 books here, because some authors have written more than one book that is useful.

This guide should cover general unsigned pieces and some signed pieces of jewellery. However there are no specific books ever written for the majority of the mass produced signed costume jewellery made by UK companies or made for the UK market apart from Wilson and Butler.

1. Costume Jewellery: A Collectors Guide by Caroline Behr (Miller's) (ISBN 1-84000-373-1)

A good place to start with a general over view and time line from Victorian, Art Deco, Arts and Crafts, 1950s, Czech, Austrian and some designers. Easy to read and has good photographs. Hand bag size and ideal to read on the train

2. Vintage Costume Jewellery: A Passion for fabulous Fakes by Carol Tanenbaum (ISBN 1-85149-511-8)

A must to buy and has the time line with expanded information. Includes Art Nouveau, Birmingham silver, machine, intro to Bakelite and plastic and a glossary. Loads of good photographs but none of the backs (a must for identification but rarely included in any book)

3. Secrets To Collecting Jewelry: How to BUY MORE for less! by Leigh Leshner (ISBN 0-89689-180-1)

Again a time line and over view through history but an absolute gem of a book because it has shows the backs and mechanism or findings that are essential to dating jewellery. This book looks at style and materials with specific photographs. Prom jewellery, art plastic, retro, manufacturing methods, Scandinavian, cameos. Mostly brief information but a very good visual guide. US book with $ price guide (2005). Another fabulous book to read on the bus or train as fits into your bag.

4. Jewels and Jewellery Clare Phillips (V & A) (ISBN 978-1-85177-535-4) or Jewellery: The Decorative Arts Library edited by Janet Swarbrick (ISBN 1-902328-13-2)

Could not decide which of these UK books was the most informative. So have I have included both

Jewels and Jewellery contains materials, a chronology of styles and manufacturing and distribution. Photographs of museum and pieces. Includes silver filigree, Berlin Iron, pearls, glass and enamel. Faith jewellery, cut steel, mourning and love jewellery not just jet or bog oak. Lalique, Ashbee, Liberty Cymric, Wilson, Gaskins and a time line pre Victorian to the 2000s.

Jewellery is a visual celebration of the world's great jewellery making techniques. From the ancient world until 1989. Full of information and photographs with more specific references to Jewellery in the UK.

5. Popular Jewelry of the '60s, '70s & '80s by Roseann Ettinger (ISBN 0-7643-2470-5)

Three decades of jewellery showing fashion and political trends that influenced the designs. US book with $ price guide (2006) The majority of vintage jewellery found is from this period and so makes this book invaluable to read. Well illustrated with pieces that are recognizable here in the UK. Including Mod jewellery, eastern influence, Pop Art, novelty, revival pieces, love beads, Art Metal, jade, plastic, wood and pave. The author has produced other reference books on other decades which are well worth investing in.

6. Collecting Art Plastic Jewelry by Leigh Leshner (ISBN 0-87349-954-9)

Bakelite is rare to find in jewellery in such quantities and variety as in the States. It is useful to recognize and see the variety of designs plastic has been used or with other materials. Celluloid, Lucite, thermoset, thermoplastic, laminated, reverse carved are more commonly found here in the UK and easily over looked. This book does make you look at plastic accessories in a whole new light. Does not contain enough information on galalith, the early plastic type that is more common in the UK. For this read books on Jakob Bengel.

7. Collecting Costume Jewelry 303: The flip side Exploring costume jewelry from the back by Julia C Carroll. (ISBN 978-1-57432-626-0)

This is the book that gets to the basics must have knowledge of vintage costume jewellery. The different components including the stones and cabochons that can be invaluable in dating and hardware clues that can be missed. Cameos, rhinestones, signed jewellery and photographs of the signatures, art glass, pin backs and so much more. I look at this book and always find something that I have not noticed before. One of my most valuable books in terms of knowledge. Also has a section of designers including Jonette Jewelry Co (JJ) that are not always found in other books. US book with $ price guides (2010)

Julia Carroll has produced other books including Costume Jewelry 101 and 202 in this serious. Both books are well worth having for reference as well.

8. Baubles, Buttons and Beads: The Heritage of Bohemia by Sibelle Jargstorf (ISBN 0-88740-467-7)

This is another gem of a book; as we had an abundance of vintage jewellery imported into this country from Bohemia up until the Second World War and then in smaller quantities after. Still available to find and collect but prices are rising. Sections on buttons, filigree, glass beads, plastic and glass cameos, 1930s, enamel and more importantly the history. After reading this book it has helped me date and identify cameos, filigree brooches and brightly coloured rhinestone jewellery of the 1920s and 30s. Hand finished and machine made dress clips and the different finishes used.

Sibylle Jargstorf has produced other books on beads and glass that are invaluable.

9. Cameos: A Pocket Guide by Monica Lynn Clements and Patricia Rosser Clements (ISBN 0-7643-1728-8)

Although there are many books on cameos, this small packet guide is full of cameos in materials other than shell. Shell is the most collected cameo jewellery type but for me it did not have an appeal. I wanted to know more about the glass, plastic, metal and gemstone cameos that I was finding. How to identify the materials used and when were they made. This book has an abundance of photographs covering a huge amount of cameos in these materials and more importantly recognizable for the UK market. US book with $ price guide (2003) For more in depth information on cameo jewellery then obtain any of the editions of Cameos: Old and New by Anna M Miller.

10. Victorian Jewellery by Margaret Flowers (No ISBN)

Not a book on vintage but antique jewellery that is now out of print but still available in several editions. First published in 1951 but well worth reading. Insight into the Victorian influences and seen in revival pieces. Birmingham's role in mass produced jewellery. This book is often sited in later books as being influential. Has the Victorian period in 3 parts and each section has the most used motifs of that period. Did make me laugh at the sheer snobbish attitude of the author at times but well worth reading. Few photographs and mostly in black and white that are not that clear.

11. Scottish Jewellery: A Victorian Passion by Diana Scarisbrick

Scottish jewellery is found in abundance in the UK. From the mid nineteenth century with the rise in popularity, had factories in Scotland and England churning out designs and pieces in the thousands. This continued into the late twentieth century mostly in Birmingham. This book is a good introduction. Not as in depth as could have been and do not expect information on vintage Scottish souvenir jewellery from Miracle, The Ward Brothers, Exquisite or Hollywood. Pages of photographs of agate and silver brooches and bracelets. But complicated by the photo guide at the end of the book. A good starter book to recognize Scottish motifs.

12. Warman's Jewelry: Fine & Costume Jewelry 4Th Edition by Kathy Flood (ISBN 1-4402-0801-8)

This is the 4Th edition of the Warman's Jewelry Identification and Price Guide. So 3 other books to obtain and read. In this edition two centuries are covered with pearls, figural, cameos, Art Nouveau, Art Deco and plastic. The difference between Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian jewellery. Again page after page of jewellery photographs. Good mix of fresh antique, vintage and modern jewellery. A mix of world wide designs hat I found applicable to the UK. US book with $ price guide (2010)

This is just a brief reference of general books for vintage jewellery that will change as more books come onto the market or I discover out of print books. Then there are more specific books on Bengal, Avon, Sarah Coventry, Egyptian Revival jewellery, Haskell, D & E, Wilson & Butler and so many more to read

Even with this amount of information I still feel that I have just skimmed the surface. As said previously there is a lack of information on jewellery from Ciro Pearls, Sphinx, Exquisite, Miracle, Hollywood, Thomas Le Mott and many other companies that mass produced jewellery in this country in the twentieth century, which is now very collectible world wide.

Sign Painting: The Dying Art Form

Sign painters are few and far between these days. The reason for this is there's no-one training for this dying art. Practically every sign painter was taught by an old pro and learned the art, but he had to be able to take constructive criticism.

Actually painting a sign or rather hand lettering kind of took a back seat to other methods of lettering a sign, in the recent past. Computer generated signs seem to be the hot spot in the sign industry. Anyone who could spell would type in the copy, size and font style, then a plotter would cut out the vinyl letters. All they had to do was then stick them on whatever surface they chose. You didn't have to be an artist, you just needed to be able to read a ruler.

Go into any town and you can find these shops anywhere, a lot of the times they will be incorporated with some business as a side line.

Back in the 60s and before, neon signs were real popular and they lost ground to the internally lit signs made using plastic faces. The only places neon signs stayed in constant use were in cities like Vegas etc. They are being used more each day now, seemingly making a comeback back in lesser populated areas also.

Getting back to the actual sign painter, he is very much in demand now. The reason is, computer generated signs have no character compared to a well designed hand painted sign. And if they are painted correctly, they usually last longer than the vinyl ones.

I just retired after painting signs for a little over fifty years, but I still enjoy painting occasionally. Especially if it one that doesn't require climbing.

So, if anyone is interested in learning this trade and wants to know how to paint a sign, their best bet is to find a actual sign painter and work out a plan to work with him for the training and supervision you will need to succeed. There are alternatives such as online training (art course) available for those who want to learn and does not have someone to teach them, This will take you longer, because you want have over the shoulder supervision, to correct you as you make mistakes. Oh yes, you will make mistakes because it takes time to perfect this art form. But, well worth the effort and you can have fun while learning as well.

Some of the sign painting basics needed to learn are formatting and separating the copy into categories and laying out the sign for painting. Also choosing the the best material for the sign, choosing style of letter (font) that would best reflect the business and colors that would be appealing or matching an existing sign.

What Do You Need to Eat?

We eat junk because it feels good. Instant gratification is what drives the current evolution of the human species. But junk food doesn't feel so good once the fun is over.

In the short term, it takes forever to digest, making you slow and lethargic which leads to a lack of activity and a slower metabolism. In the long run, giving in to those tasty little treats increases your risk of obesity, heart disease, diabetes and stroke

High calorie comfort foods will actually stop chronic stress dead in it's tracks and allow you a short reprieve. However, if you are continuously stressed and seeking the proverbial tub of Hagen Daaz, stop. You need to find a way the relieve your stress without damaging your health.

The majority of us do not eat enough protein and eat too many carbohydrates and fat. The food guides of Canada and the US outline diets that are very similar to those fed to fatten up cattle. It's sad really, that our governments would sell us out because some farmers wanted to be assured that there product was deemed "healthy consumption".

I used to eat junk food most of the time - I considered microwave pasta to be healthy. When I began eating natural, whole foods with very small amounts of starches (bread, pasta, rice, potato) I got severe headaches for three days. I found out that I had consumed so much sugar, it had become like a drug in my system - the headaches were withdrawal symptoms.

Now, I eat small portions 4-5 times each day. This keeps my metabolism up so that I have more energy all day. I don't even crave junk food very often. When I go overboard and eat to much starch, it feels like a ball of lead sitting in my belly and it's a long time before I crave it again. I can eat a bite of a chocolate bar and put it away for the next day.

We need to reprogram ourselves. Listen to your body, it honestly knows what to do. Try to ignore your tastebuds for a while. They say it takes 21 days to make or break a habit. I went cold turkey into 21 days of clean eating.

The extreme change was quite a shock to my system and if you're as bad off as I was, you should probably ease into it. I forced myself to eat 5 times a day - I felt like I was constantly eating and never really getting full. I really missed being full after a good meal, but now it feels gross to be full.

I don't even have to look at the clock for meal times anymore - I get instantly hungry at the right times and reach for my food. It seems like you spend a lot of time eating at first, but once you find your groove, you'll find you have a lot more time and energy.

Next time you get a craving, stop and take a look at who's asking for that chocolate bar. If it's your taste buds, grab a ripe peach - works every time. You just have to love your self!

I Hate The Wait (Weight)

I get up in the morning

And want to stay in bed

Oh, so nice and warm

Like fresh from the oven bread.

I never know just what to say

Will my words be wrong

I muster up my inner strength

to keep me going strong

My day is oh so busy

I wish that I could stay

In the quiet of my house

If only I could play

Relax and play like Children do

No matter where they are

Never worried about being late

Or looking ahead too far

My body won't sit quietly

I need to get there now

No time to chat, I now must go

All I can say is Chow

I hate to wait

For time to pass

Time to eat

To get some gas

Tick Tock of the clock

I look into the sky

The numbers move so slowly

I wish that they would fly

The weight won't move at all today

And the wait is way too long

I am doing the best I can

To help move time along.

I can not control the numbers

On the clock or on the scale

I need to remember that they are things

And that I will never fail.

Time will pass without my help,

The scale gets thrown away

I will learn to breathe these words,

I will to learn to say to say:

Say the words that matter

In soul, In Heart and Voice

I have enough, I do enough, I am enough

For each day is a choice.

Never knowing what to say

or if it will be wrong

I muster up the courage

to keep me going strong.

How to Report Different Types of Employee Compensation on Your Tax Return

There are specific guidelines provided by IRS on which items are to be included in the employee's gross income. It is better to know them well.

Advance commissions - If you are receiving some money by way of commission for services to be performed in the future and if you'll maintain your records on cash basis, you have to include these amounts in the year in which you receive them. If you repay on core and commission in the year of their receipt, you can reduce the amount from your income. Back pay awards - If you are awarded money in a settlement or judgment for back pay, you need to include this in your income. This includes money received for damages and unpaid Life Insurance & health premiums. The amount should also be reported by your employer on your form W2. Bonuses and awards - If you receive these for outstanding work, they need to be included in your income. These include prizes and vacation trips for meeting goals. If you receive such awards in the form of goods or services, the fair market value of such goods or services has to be included in your income. However if the employer just promises you to pay a bonus, it is not included unless you receive it actually. Employee achievement award - If you receive personal property other than cash or a gift certificate, towards an award for length of service or safety achievement, you can exclude that amount from your income.  However if the amount exceeds $1600, you need to include it in your income. If a length of service award is given for less than five years of your service or if you receive it within five years of receiving the previous award, you need to include it in your income. Cost of living allowances - These are generally included in your income. Non-qualified deferred compensation plans - Your employer will report to you these amounts, which are not included in your income. However, if any time during the year the plan fails to meet the specified requirements, or it is non operational under those requirements, the amounts under that plan for the present tax year as well as the amounts received in all proceeding tax year is are included in your income of present tax year. Note received for services - If you receive a secured note towards the payment for your services, you have to include the fair market value of such note in the year in which you receive such note. However when you receive payments on that note at a later date, you need not include that in your income. Severance pay - This money and the money you receive for cancellation of your employment contract has to be included in your income. Accrued payment for leave - If you receive this type of payment when you resign or retire, it will be included as your income and will be shown on your form W2. Outplacement services - If you opt to accept less amount of severance pay in order to receive outplacement services, you have to include the unreduced amount of severance pay in your income. However in this situation you can deduct the value of such outplacement services as a miscellaneous deduction. This deduction is subject to normal two per cent of the AGI limit. Sick pay - If you receive pay when you are sick or receive any money from an insurance company where your employer pays for the plan, all this money needs to be included in your income. However if you have paid the premiums on such insurance policies, money received under such policies is not taxable. Social security and Medicare taxes paid by the employer - If your employer pays these amounts under an agreement with you, you have to report this money as your taxable income on your tax return. Stock appreciation rights - These rights granted by the employer are not included in your income until you actually exercise such right. When you exercise such right, you may receive a cash payment which is equal to be fair market value of the stock of the corporation on that date, less the fair market value on the date of the right. You have to include such cash payment in your income. Remember, these are normally the types of compensation employees receive. If you receive any other compensation than above, you need to talk to a tax consultant to find out its tax treatment.

Asthma and Allergies - Air Purifiers are NOT the Solution for Indoor Pollution

The ill-health effects of indoor air pollution have reached an epidemic proportion across the entire world population. Health associations and federal agencies have now begun to notify the U.S. public of the ever increasing concerns. Since 1980, rising rates of asthma (and asthma deaths, especially among children), rhinitis, and sinusitis, have been noticed and are only a few of the illnesses that have been escalating since the energy conservation practices implemented in the late 1970's.

Improved construction methods initiated to minimize "heat loss and/or heat gain" resulted in the building of more air-tight structures in our work places, schools, and homes. These new building methods served the purpose of "energy saving" very well and continue to so. However, the negative fallout has been that of an increasingly amount of poor (trapped) indoor air quality, due to the lack of ventilation which was prevalent when using the previous construction methods.

Government environmental agencies rate indoor air pollution as the country's biggest pollution problem, far outweighing the concerns of outdoor air pollution. The EPA has stated that indoor air pollution is easily 2 to 5 times higher than outdoor air pollution and in some cases may even be 100 times higher. A five-year study conducted by the EPA discovered 20 different toxic compounds in the air inside homes and the concentration of these pollutants were 200 times higher than the air outdoors. Poor air circulation is partly to blame -- and quite understandably, it worsens during the colder months. Unfortunately, the persons most susceptible to the ill-health effects of indoor air pollution are the same persons who are most prominently exposed. Infants, toddlers, children, the elderly, and chronically ill persons, spend over 90% of their life indoors and for all people, most of that time being spent sleeping on unhygienic mattresses. The American College of Allergy, Asthma, and Immunology (ACAAI) has suggested that 50% of all illnesses are caused by, or further aggravated by, poor indoor air quality. According to the National Academy of Sciences, indoor air pollutants cost Americans ranges $15 billion to $100 billion annually while causing both short-term and long-term ill-health effects.

Indoor Pollutants are Classified as Particulate Matter or Gaseous Matter Particulate matter (pollutants), are made of mass and may or may not be seen with the naked eye. Generally, particulate contaminants are microscopic and are weight-wise, light enough to become airborne and inhaled. These indoor pollutants include dust, dust mite allergens (DMA's), insect body parts, molds, mildew, spores, pollen, pet dander, insect droppings, bacteria and viruses. These types of pollutants are considered to be allergens and when inhaled can irritate allergy sufferers and cause allergy attacks. Dust mite fecal pellets, eggs, and exoskeletons, all of which contain guanine, a potent and very harmful allergen, become airborne quite easily and are then inhaled.

Gaseous matter (pollutants), are typically man-made such as chemical fumes. Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC's) also are found in this category. VOC's can cause symptoms ranging from eye, nose and throat irritation, headaches and nausea, to severe and chronic health conditions such as damage to the nervous system. Furniture, wall paper, carpet backing, plywood, and particle board, commonly found in cabinet-making, are known to "off-gas" formaldehyde for years.

Formaldehyde is classified as a known human carcinogen by the International Agency for Research on Cancer. VOC's are often found in paint and varnishes and may cause cancer in humans, according to the EPA. Mattresses, even the most expensive, are by law, now saturated with anti-flammable chemicals. The "off-gassing" of these flame retardant chemicals cause many health related problems and irate consumers are left with expensive mattresses that they will never sleep on again. Similarly, cleaning products, disinfectants, room deodorizers, glues, adhesives, aerosols, beauty products, and even cooking fumes can irritate allergy sufferers and may trigger allergy or asthma attacks. Avoid products that include the following ingredients; benzene, chloride, formaldehyde, ethylene, terpene, and toluene.

The Intelligent Mode of Attacking the Indoor Air Pollution Problem The two most effective means of reducing indoor air pollution are:

Source Control, by far and without argument, eliminating or controlling the sources of indoor air pollution is the healthiest, most effective, and in the long run, the most cost-effective also. This involves becoming knowledgeable of household products and minimizing use of products that lead to poor indoor air quality. Employ good hygiene practices and improve housekeeping to control particulates. Reduce biological contaminants, including control of moisture and humidity, by cleaning and disinfecting wet or moist surfaces. Ventilation, dilute and exhaust the indoor air through outdoor air ventilation. Methods include installing exhaust fans near the source of contaminants, opening the home to the outdoors when pollutant sources are being used, and increasing outdoor air flow in mechanical ventilation systems. The Role of Air Purifiers - Only as a Last Resort Air cleaners, or purifiers, should only be used as the very last resort and ONLY after all attempts at source control and/or ventilation have been undertaken. Air purifiers are a lucrative business and many companies are willing to dupe consumers for their share of the profits in this $500 million per year industry. The marketing divisions of these companies drive the sales through "gimmickery" and aggressive advertising, not necessarily the so-called technological improvements. Once again the ignorant consumer is being sold on "how this box turns lead (pollutants) into gold (fresh air)" so be very, very wary.

The technological advances in air purification systems may seem fascinating but unfortunately the reality is that the vast majority (not all...but nearly all) of the air purifiers available to homeowners simply do not perform as claimed. If you are still insistent upon purchasing a home air purifier then do yourself a huge favor and take the time to research your multitude of options. Become familiar with the marketing buzzwords like unipolar ion emissions, photocatalytic oxidation, radiant catalytic ionization, high density stainless steel needle points, stainless steel plates, air ionizer, negative ions, dynamic air regenerator, activated carbon filters, activated oxygen, optional/programmable ozone, magnetic, infrared, and immune enhancers. This list is as long as the list of marketers "hawking" their product. The majority of air purifiers (cleaners) are advertised as silent "tabletop" units. Unfortunately, tabletop air purifying units move less air than the "outdoor air leakage rate" in a new, well insulated home. Also, become familiar with the industry standard, Clean Air Delivery Rate (CADR).

Integrate New Housekeeping Practices to Improve Indoor Air Quality Education is the key to improving the air we breathe in our homes. Allow yourself to be re-educated on housekeeping practices. Read the fine print on your cleaning products, dilute them if possible, or use them sparingly. Use micro-fiber wipes to capture dust and contaminants on hard surfaces. Implement exhaust fans in areas of knowingly high moisture content, such as laundry rooms, and when showering or bathing, to reduce growth of molds and mildew. Introducing fresh air and cross-ventilating your home is the next most effective method of cleansing your home of built up allergens and pollutants. HEPA filters should be utilized and can assist tremendously, provided that they are regularly replaced. The largest percentage of the time we spend indoors is while we are sleeping in our beds. Bedrooms should be the focal point when actively attempting to reduce allergens. Maintaining hygienic mattresses is of the utmost importance otherwise, for 8 hours each day, you are breathing in the accumulated allergens in your bedding, atop and within your mattress and pillows. Regularly scheduled professional mattress cleaners can remove unhealthy allergens and reduce dust mite populations (the #1 cause of poor indoor air quality) not only from your mattresses, but also from the "soft-furnishings" throughout your home. If you have rigorously implemented the best effective means of reducing indoor air pollution through source control and ventilation and still have health problems, then perhaps pursue the option of an air purifier. But do remember, it's "buyer beware" when choosing. Otherwise, don't ignorantly accept air purifiers as the "be all, end all, to your indoor air pollution problems. The next time you are approached by an air purifier salesperson, don't walk, run, run...run away! For more information on the effects of poor indoor air pollution, refer to the EzineArticle;

Asthma, "Hidden" Asthma and Allergies at the following link: http://ezinearticles.com/?Asthma,-Hidden-Asthma,-And-Allergies-&id=430592